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Horsemeat for Sale Here - Paris
Horsemeat for Sale Here
by hquittner
Paris Local Customs: Travel tips and advice posted by real travelers and Paris locals.
Dining & Drinking
• 61 Photos
• 76 Reviews

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Dining & Drinking: When in France remember that...
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  • When in France remember that French onion soup is Onion soup. Otherwise the waiter at 1230am on christmas might not be so happy you came in just before closing.

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    Dining & Drinking: The French don't really like...
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  • The French don't really like Americans unless they speak French and leave big tips! But you can survive if you stay cool and order carefully.

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    Dining & Drinking: A Restaurant Tip: Non-French...
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  • A Restaurant Tip:
    Non-French speaking patrons of French -- and especially Parisian -- restaurants need to be careful of the term 'entrée.' It means 'entrance', or maybe more accurately, 'entered', and applies to 'starters.' Unfortunately, my French is quite limited. Anyway, it does not mean 'main course' as it is interpreted in the U.S. This bit of info may well save you a few patronizing 'sniffs' from waiters.

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    Dining & Drinking: On the third Thursday of...
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  • On the third Thursday of November, tradition has it that everyone must taste the Nouveau Beaujolais wine. The inexpensive red wine usually does better abroad than at home, but on this day, folks throng to bars and cafes to drink long into the night. There's nothing more convivial than sharing a bottle with friends, and if you want to see some unbridled bacchanalianism, try the Marais neighborhood, or the Saint Germain des Pres and St Michel areas.

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    Dining & Drinking: Speak foreign not English
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  • If at all possible and you could speak another language than English or German, use it when adressing the French people and they will definately be more open to assisting you.

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    Dining & Drinking: Brasseries (3)
    ... We were enjoying it, people watching when two of our neighbours stood up. One man in a shirt & pants with paints on it (probably an artist), the other in a clean but equally casual attire. They asked whether we were Malagasy. To the question, we replied "Yes". From that, a conversation started. The presumably artist was drunk & very volubile about his Malagasy connection whilst the other one was more quiet. The latter was, in fact, a keen lover of Madagascar. He also owns a pharmaceutical company. His business requires frequent travels to my island. These two guys happened to know a Malagasy writer who was very active in fighting for Madagascar's Independence. We talked about Madagascar's situation. Inevitably as there was a time in 2001-2002, the country had experienced a political crisis ensuing the 2001 presidential elections.

    Funny to talk to strangers about this great man (the Malagasy writer, not the drunk man) who joined his efforts to others (me included) during the crisis. Despite the fact that the writer could read what I wrote about the crisis, to raise awareness about the situation (as an activist within an online community) & that he had sent an encouragement to me via a common friend, I felt it weird to talk to strangers about a cause dear to me. Even if I had the feeling those two guys shared the same opinions as mine (we all wanted the dictator to step down as he lost those elections). Even if they know where the writer lives (he & the drunken man are 14ème arr. locals) & that I was dying to enter in contact with him again [during the crisis, an error made me mistaking his e-mail address for another one. My e-mails never got across]... despite all those favorable signs, I felt only to close ones I'd talk about such thing... but that's Paris effect. Can be a cosmopolitan city but out of the places & areas tourists use to rush & flock in, people still take some time to talk to each other at a brasserie terrace, watching the world going by, sipping the nth pint of beer, glass of kir...

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    Dining & Drinking: Brasseries.. even when "Paris a le blues"
    Parisians like their brasseries or, at least, Le Zeyer.

    The morning I had my breakfast there, I saw locals. A bit surprising given the day (a working day) & that we were there in summery August. It is the time of the year when "Paris a le blues" according to French artist MC Solaar. It is emptied of its inhabitants (Juilletistes use to leave Paris for their vacation in July whilst Aoutistes do it in August.. now do all Juilletistes return in August ? Not sure). Anyway, one has to wait for Septembre & the rentrée to live Paris again.

    Still, as I said, I saw locals at le Zeyer at 10am. Must be Parisians savouring their last days of vacations. Those who work shouldn't be out at a terrace at 10am. Amongst locals, I saw a French TV star. Elegant in her beige linen suit. Sans sunglasses, just busy chatting & having a café serré.

    Unbeknownst to me at that time, Le Zeyer used to count the likes of Henry Miller as regulars when he stayed in the area during his 30s European jaunts. On the net, I also saw a painting of Le Zeyer, a bright one with the distinctive yellow awning, said to be painted by an artist who lived in the area. A great fauna ! Anyway, with its warm yellow-orangey-gold Art deco interior, it sure has a special and inspiring flair. I just knew about the painter & Arthur Miller being regulars there long after my first sitting at Le Zeyer in the early 80s & still some time after this afternoon in 2004. Even when you want to know about a place in a non-touristy Parisian arrondissement, Google would still find it.

    Later in the afternoon: more locals, the terrace was full (I think my parents & I were the only tourists). We proceeded our way inside. Yet, we could still have a look onto the streets, stretch our sore feet & legs, watch the world passing by. People were chatting while sipping their Kros, Pastis, Tonic. Those who stop at a time could hear the polyphony aired in the room. It also happens that when a bit uninhibited by their alcohol intake, people talk to neighbours.

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    Dining & Drinking: Food time!
    You will notice that most European eat later than North American. Especially for lunch as well as dinner.
    It's up to you to eat at restaurants at 6pm rather than 8 or 9pm. I would go later, to be with the city.

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    Dining & Drinking: remember your manners
    Just remember, be polite...if you are not sure about something-ask!
    Unlike the USA, the waiter will not bring the check until you ask.
    The gratuity is included, but leaving an extra Euro or two is appreciated.

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    Dining & Drinking: When eating out the most...
    When eating out the most economical way is to have their fixed menu.

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