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Paris Off the Beaten Path

Tips and photos of unusual, out-of-the-way Paris attractions, posted by real travelers and locals.
Local Time 4:59 pm Friday, December 5, 2008
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Métro: Entertainment on the go
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  • Blaring a trumpet solo on the metro - Paris
    Blaring a trumpet solo on the
    metro
    by bpacker
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    Despite my grumbling about the stuffy subway in summer, I have to admit it is entertaining to take a ride on the metro. Why? Well, each time I hopped unto a train, my attention deficit disordered personality was kept at bay with buskers. I saw puppeteers, trumpeteers, pianists, mime artists who brought a smile to my face.
    And what's more, the buskers have real talent.
    It was only later that I found out that the busking scene in Paris is tightly controlled by the the Paris Metro authority's busker programme (known as the Accord on Metro Space, or EMA) . Every year, artists go through an audition every year to win one of the 360 licenses to busk on the Paris underground, or the chance to perform for the 2.5 million commuters who use the Metro every day. Who knows, some of them might be talented spotted for a big break..

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    Walking Around: Tres Petit Smart Cars in Europe
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  • The Smart Car in Paris. - Paris
    The Smart Car in Paris.
    by bpacker
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    If ever you're in Paris, you're bound to see these cute little things zipping around the chaotic streets like a motorcycle. Yes, it's none other than the fuel-efficient, green Smart Car.
    There's also a couple of these in Singapore as well, but none of us have really taken to these little things since everyone buys a SUV these days. Somehow, there's this inherent fear that we'll turn into Fat Bastard* if we enter into one of these things and get stuck there forever.

    *Scottish lump of fat as seen in Austin Powers , the movie.

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    The Statue of Liberty: Très Petit Lady Liberty
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  • Très Petit Lady Liberty - Paris
    Très Petit Lady Liberty
    by bpacker
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    In appreciation for the Statue of Liberty in New York harbor, Americans living in Paris erected a small replica, about 35 feet high, of the Statue of Liberty. It is mounted next to the Pont de Grenelle, a bridge crossing the Seine, 1.5 km South of the Eiffel Tower.

    I saw the mini-me version of the real thing when I went on the night cruise on the Seine

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    Musée Rodin: See Rodin's Work through his Eyes
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  • Death and Despair in Bronze - Paris
    Death and Despair in Bronze
    by bpacker
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    Now, if you do happen to go to Musée Rodin, don't just aim for "The Kiss" and " The Thinker". There are other worthy bronze sculptures in the main museum and in the gardens worth mulling over. For your benefit, I will talk about these other sculptures. The Burghers of Calais is a case in point. Do look out for it near the entrance to the gardens.
    The sculpture took my breath away when I saw it for the first time. How can it not, especially when Rodin immortalised the patriots in their final moments of death and despair? ( In case you don't know, the burghers were six French citizens who sacrificed their lives to end the English siege of their city in 1347 ) These statues were placed at ground level instead of being elevated so that viewers would be deeply moved by looking closely at the postures and facial expressions of the men as they confronted their deaths.

    Where
    The Musée Rodin is located at 77 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris.

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  • Phone: 011 33 1 44 18 61 10
  • Website: www.musee-rodin.fr.
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    Claude Monet's Garden in Giverny: The Water Lillies in Monet's garden
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  • The inspiration for some of Claude Monet's finest pieces of art comes from the lillies in his beautiful garden at Giverny. So keen was I to see this garden, that I went on a cycling trip to Giverny , 13 hours after I landed in France from Singapore! This day trip cost me about 50 euros but it was worth every cent as it quelled my need for exercise and the French countryside is as beautiful as it is reputed to be.

    If you're wondering whether I cycled into the pond due to my jetlag, click here to see my Giverny page. It's the #1 Giverny page for the time being and it's been described by my readers as a visual gem.

    Details for the cycling tour agent are found at the weblink below.

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    Romance & The Erotic: Don't Tell Mom!
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  • A famous work at the Museum of Erotic Art - Paris
    A famous work at the
    Museum of Erotic Art
    by Ciambella
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    Musée de l'Erotisme (Museum of Erotic Art - 72 Boulevard de Clichy, 75009 Paris) is not for the faint of heart or the prudish of mind. You will need to leave all conventional judgment behind before even approaching the ticket window. Seven floors of every imaginable and some unimaginable devices, pictures, sculptures, paintings, etc. are displayed here. Some will make you burst out laughing and others will make you raise your eyebrows. Most of the exhibition articles are one of a kind and have arrived from around the world. Quite a few sculptures are for sale, with price tags in the thousands.

    Relax and enjoy.

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  • Phone: +33 01.42.58.28.73
  • Other Contact: Métro: Blanche
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    Galleries & Passages: Before the shopping malls ... the Passages
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  • The idea of providing protected shopping 'centers' is as old as trading : no one wants the goods to be ruined or the potential custommer deterred by weather conditions. The form may differ depending on the era and the country but such places always and everywhere exist(ed), be they souks, covered markets or shopping malls.

    While the wooden galeries du Palais Royal, built in 1786 and destroyed since, are considered as the parisian galeries prototype, the real expansion of the concept occured in the first half of the19th century.

    More than 30 passages or galeries have been built since and most of them still exist, each of them having its own personality: from the luxuous shops in Galerie Vivienne and Colbert to the simple passage way like Passage Dauphine, from the fashion designers haunt in Passage du Grand Cerf to the little Indian/Pakistan restaurants' collection in the shaddy Passage Brady; including the more 'classical' Passage Verdeau, Passage Jouffroy and Passage des Panoramas.

    After a quasi-disapearance during the 2nd empire (overshadowed by the new 'Grands Magasins'), they found a second youth at the end of the 20th century and continue to change : the Passage du Havre has been renovated and turned into a modern mini-mall, new passages have even been created like the marche Saint Honore (hosting furniture designers)...

    But they all have some things in common, the light and the sounds: due to their glass roofs, the natural light, even filtered through pebble-glass differs from any sort of man-made light, and they retain this incredible quality of peace due to muted sounds.

    Some more photos here

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    Walking Around: OPERAs de PARIS : The step brother : Opera Comique
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  • Also known as 'Salle Favart' (it's first name) the Opera Comique, (re)built in 1887 (on the location of the previous Comte de Choiseul's private theater) is now just a secondary implementation from the Opera Garnier.

    Initially dedicated to opera comique (a now vanished form of opera) and operette, it has lost importance since the decline of those genres and the creation of the Opera Bastille.

    It now hosts the "Centre National d'Art Lyrique" (part of the opera school) and the only performances presented are french opera works sung in french (along with the new opera singers auditions).
    But, in 2006, the Opera Comique may find a new youth, after undergoing a renovation (2005), it will gain the status of 'Theatre National' (and that means more budget...)

    Address : Rue Favart/Place Boieldieu
    Metro Richelieu Drouot or Quatre Septembre

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  • Phone: 0825000058
  • Website: http://www.opera-comique.com/
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    Cemeteries & Other Resting Places: Spooky Place For Spooky Taste
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  • Cimetière de Montmartre is a place unlike any other in Paris. First, in order to like this place, you have to like cemeteries (duh!). Second, you must adore the sight of goose bumps on your skin and the feel of chills along your spine. Third, you are definitely crazy about black cats with furtive looks about them.

    If you happen to possess all the requirements and you have some free time on your hand, then, my friend: Let me take you down. 'Cause I'm going to cemetery fields. Nothing is real. And plenty to get hung about. Cemetery fields forever! (I am sorry for being a clown and stealing your beautiful words, John.)

    Just a block off Boulevard de Clichy, the cemetery first opened up like a small park, green and peaceful. Zola's resting place was lovely, thank you. After Berlioz' grave, though, we were lost and the place started to become a bit leery. Vegetation growing out from and clinging to the tombstones did not help to ease our feeling; the wild branches looked strangely like tentacles. All of a sudden, the temperature dropped. Perhaps it was just the typical Paris' unpredictable weather, but there was something in the air that made me think otherwise.

    While looking for Fragonard's final resting place, we became disoriented. The hair in my back stood up when the cats (all of them black) appeared and disappeared between the rows of tombstones. Charles had never met a cat he did not love, so he called out to them and followed them deeper and deeper into the jungle of homes for the departed, while I was trying desperately to find a way out. Then, just as suddenly as when we got lost, we turned around a corner and found ourselves walking toward the guard. He blew a whistle, indicating the cemetery was about to close.

    The last street that led us out to the gate was as pleasant as a walk in the park, lined with weathered statues and well-kept graves. The sky was clear, the air was calm, visiting hour was over, and we found ourselves back to Pigalle in the thick of the adult entertainment world!

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  • Other Contact: Métro: Place de Clichy
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    Life In A Museum
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  • When you’re at the Louvre, don't just admire the sculptures, paintings and artifacts, but spend some time watching the people as well.

    Inside the museum, you’ll run into many groups with tour guides. I try every way to avoid being in the same room with them. However, I always drift toward the students with their history teachers. The students don’t look at things as most tourists do: they don’t go from one piece to another, snap a picture, check off their list and then move on. They’re there only to learn about one certain aspect of history, and they do it well. They all sit on the floor; the teacher is on the same level with the pupils. Teacher teaches and students learn, but now and then, the roles are reversed when a discussion becomes a new lesson for all.

    These history lessons are like a scene out of Raphael's School of Athens. This is the same method of learning and teaching that gave us Aristotle, Plato, Socrates, Euclid, Epicurus, Diogenes, etc. That is what I love the most, the serious but inspirational lessons without the tour guide add-on commentaries to amuse the crowd.

    Walk around the museum and into rooms where the art students sketch the same sculpture. Discreetly peer over their shoulders, you’ll find that in fact, people don't share the same view or see the same thing.

    Walk outside to the courtyard and see young children learn to draw the first time. Once, I was fortunate to witness a young artist at work. She must have been about 7 years old; her model was her grandmother. Both artist and model were serious at their work. The young artist drew, then erased, then drew again. An hour passed and not much was done. The model suggested it was time for a snack. The artist did not think the flow of her inspiration should be interrupted. The connection between the two was so beautiful, touching and mesmerizing.

    You can find similar scenes often in the courtyard. It's especially evocative when children's crayon works show their innocent interpretation of the immortalized works of masters.

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