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This is my neighborhood. I have lived here off and off for almost two years. I love it. It is named after General Pierre Denfert-Rochereau of the 19th century, who, during the Franco-Prussian war, led the resistance of Belfort against the seige. Prior to the present name, it was, coincidentally, called Place d'Enfer. The place is easily recognizable by the giant Lion of Belfort in the center, a copy of the one in Belfort.
A friend, who has lived in this quartier for many years, told me that it was at one time a working class neighborhood, but now it is being elevated and the rent for a five bedroom apartment in a Hausemann style building goes for about $4000 a month and that's without a doorman.
Though it seems out of the way, it really is not. It is directly out Blvd St. Michele past Jardin du Luxembourg and Porte Royal. You can actually walk there from Notre Dame. I have done it many times. But if you don't feel like walking, take the RER B, or subway lines 4 and 6. You can also get bus #38 or #68. It would be a very lovely place to stay for your time in Paris. It is away from the hordes of tourists in an actual neighborhood. You will be able to mingle peacefully among the Parisians. It is quiet at night and lively during the day. There is a wonderful street called Rue Daguerre with fromageries, wine caves, boucheries, as well as quite a few brasseries, cafés and restaurants. And then of course there is MacDonalds.
When you see the Lion you will know you are there Leave a Comment
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Michael is as nice & wonderful as you’ve read: charming, intelligent, erudite & witty. He’s extremely knowledgeable about art, architecture & history to bring Paris alive more than any guidebook. No small wonder he has a legion of fans. He currently charges 100 euros which includes as many people in the party so you may split up the cost amongst you.
If Michael is unavailable he may suggest Scott who is equally fabulous! Had drinks with him & Michael at the Ritz, went to a Jim Haynes dinner party, Tour Montparnasse, dined at Chartier, & a VT meeting at Le Train Bleu.
Michael gets a kick out of planning itineraries geared to your specific tastes. If you like art, tell him what types (Impressionist, Expressionist, modern, medieval) or artists. Or he could do a Da Vinci Code tour for you. Or something specific to an historic era, i.e. gothic or medieval, Renaissance, pre-Revolution, Revolution, etc.. Or a tour of Arago markers, Wallace fountains, Art Nouveau architecture, just whatever you're interested in finding in Paris! I know he does shopping tours sometimes. The more specific you are, the better he's able to plan it.
February 2006, I spent a day with Michael by myself doing a Working Class/Belleville Tour while another day was spent with shrimp56 and Tsarina doing the Philippe-Auguste wall tour. November 2007, I spent 4 days with him and we had a wonderful time together. I'm working on a project and he was instrumental in helping me work out some of the kinks in it, suggesting shortcuts & prettier avenues.
FYI, Michael's bday is Nov 9 and one of his fave things from home is Cream of Wheat. I brought him a box!
Photos of the Working Class Paris tour:
%L[http://www.pbase.com/beatchick/sunday_february_12th&page=all
]http://www.pbase.com/beatchick/sunday_february_12th&page=all
Photos of the Philippe-Auguste Wall Tour:
http://www.pbase.com/beatchick/saturday_february_18th&page=all
Photos: February 2006 & November 2007 Leave a Comment
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Walking along the rue de Rivoli – on the opposite side of the Louvre or rue de l’Oratoire, if you are paying attention, you will notice – among the luxury and souvenir shops – a ‘different’ building – a Temple : the Oratoire du Louvre (in fact, what will attract your eyes is certainly the statue of the Admiral de Coligny (at the back of the church)), Coligny was assassinated on August 24, 1572, during the massacre of Saint-Bathélémy – those massacres were started just a couple of meters away, in Saint Germain l'Auxerrois).
Built a the beginning of the XVII th century for the catholic Confrérie de l’Oratoire, it is - since 1811 - a protestant temple.
Beside being one of the rare protestant chuches in Paris, it is also often used for concerts (mainly choirs and/or organ concerts).
Address : 4 rue de l'Oratoire - 75001 Paris
Open all year round - guided tours on request
Metro Station Louvre-Rivoli (Line 1) or Station Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre (Lines 1,7) Leave a Comment
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Lots of concrete, hardly any greenery, but a charm and pull there non-the-less. Parisian streets are perfect for rambling around in, you are sure to find interesting little sights and finds around every corner.
Not a city girl at heart, both London and Paris have pulled down my pre-dispositions towards city life. There is alot of negative, but so much positive too :) Leave a Comment
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Just to do something totally different, a few years ago we were staying in the Champayne region and headed into Paris for the day. Parking on the outer reaches of the Metro system around Pantin I left my travel companions and headed into Paris using no more than the Canal System and a rough sense or direction.
First i headed along the L'ourcq canal past some modern architecture and the parc Villette before heading through the more industrial St Denis Canal. Once up the periphique again I then headed through the backstreet ending up (eventually) at St Denis.
The canals certainly provided a very different view of Paris and Paris life, especially among the dodgier sections of the St Denis Canal where cheap hookers turned tricks in cars near the waters edge. Leave a Comment
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We wandered around on a Saturday afternoon and came upon an open air market. The vegetables and fruit were fresh and their scents filled the air. While gazing at a stand with fresh strawberries, an older woman who was standing next to us opened her bag and offered my wife and I a berry to taste. It was a lovely gesture and a moment that we remember fondly.
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The tourists discover the Trinity church walking in the Opera district but their guide ignores this monument or tells few words.
Though, after a long visit to the department stores : Galeries Lafayette and Le Printemps, what a pleasure to go up the rue de la Chaussee d'Antin, having a look to the clothing stores to check if one has not forgoten something, and to stop in the Square d'Estienne d'Orves, shadowed by Trinity Church. If the weather is fine, it is the perfect place to rest few time after searching a restaurant in the neighborhood.
The church was built in 1867 by order of Napoleon 3. Its shape is original, especially its steeple. The architect wanted to translate the trinity into architecture.
If you enter, you will be surprise by its size, not visible, out door, 90 meters of length, 30 meters of high. Leave a Comment Other Contact: Metro : Trinite
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This tip is for thought. Try to find places that allow camera shots from high up.
For instance, there is a department store called, Samartaine , where there is a restaurant that overlooks a major part of the city.
If the weather is good, I recommend it as it is partially outdoors. The food is reasonable, too.
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As explained in the previous tip on ancient signs, I took a fancy to taking photos of ancient signs and fell in love with the ones that showed the old names and the new. These were all taken on the same day, the day shrimp56, starspinners & I took a tour of the 13th-century Philippe-Auguste Wall with Michael Osman, an extraordinary guide.
In the previous tip you saw the sign for the "Ancienne rue des Fosses Monsieur-le-Prince" which was the old name for Rue Monsieur-le-Prince in the 6th arrondissement & I surmised that this street must have once hooked up with or continued with the Rue des Fossez St-Jacques (now called Rue des Fosses St-Jacques in the 5th). Michael explained to us that this naming of the street signs for bones refers to the old ditches that were filled with bones. I believe these ditches ran outside of the Philippe-Auguste wall. Fascinating.
*Old sign underneath the Rue de Nesle, I can't read it but it was taken on the corner of Rue de Nesle & Impasse de Nevers in the 6th arrondissement, which is in the immediate vicinity of the part of the remnant of the Wall.
*Ancienne Rue Contrescarpe & Rue Mazet - this was also taken in the 6th arrondissement and you can see the peculiar angle of the building which followed the route of the ancient Wall.
*Ancient Rue des Fossez St-Jacques sign - this photo was taken at the corner of rue St-Jacques and present-day Rue des Fosses St-Jacques in the 5th arrondissement.
*Rue Percee & Rue du Prevot - this is found in the 4th arrondissement; what I particularly liked about this one was the fact that another sign was ripped out of the stone at one point.
Photos: February 2006 Leave a Comment
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Right around the corner from our hotel was a rare and used book market open on Saturdays and Sundays. My sister found an old leather bound hymnal dating back to the turn of the century. I came across many of the most interesting book covers but ended up buying only one, a '70s french thriller novel which is now on display in my house. Leave a Comment
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Destinations near Paris- Île de la Cité, 1.22 km / 0.76 miles
- Clichy, 4.44 km / 2.76 miles
- Neuilly-sur-Seine, 5.22 km / 3.24 miles
- Asnières, 6.65 km / 4.13 miles
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- Puteaux, 7.31 km / 4.54 miles
- Bois-Colombes, 7.39 km / 4.59 miles
- Issy-les-Moulineaux, 7.39 km / 4.60 miles
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