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My firm conviction is that the life and uniqueness of a city is in the details ... These are just two -- a wonderful carving over a doorway and a brass doorknob with dolphins. You will find these kinds of details in even a run-down neighborhood, maybe not as shiny or elaborate, but Paris IS in the details :)
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And a few more from the 7e and the 15e. Leave a Comment
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Rue La Fontaine, in the Auteuil quarter (near the Serres d'Auteuil and the Bois de Boulogne), is a "street-museum" of Art Nouveau architecture. This street shows many buildings by the famous architect Hector Guimard, such as:
- the Castel Béranger, at the number 14. Guimard started building it in 1895 and used a vaste range of materials. He designed the interior, as well, however the public didn't accept easily this innovative style;
- the oeuvre des Orphelins Apprentis d'Auteuil ("work of the Auteuil orphan apprentices", at the number 40), with neo-Gothic forms that could be better accepted;
- the hôtel Mezzara, at the number 60, that still keeps the original furnishings.
The pictures in this tip refers to Castel Béranger. Leave a Comment
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This used to be the largest clothes market (mostly second hand) in Paris.
It did exist since the medieval times - the name Temple comes from the 1st owners of the area : the Templars used to have their heaquaters there (in a bit larger area than the present carreau - A map on a wall of the Mairie (townhouse) (see photo 3) features the medieval plan.
Once the templars met the fate we know at the beginning of the 14th century, the place was transformed : the towers were taken down and a clothes (both luxury and second hand) and fabric market used the space.
The existing structures are from 1863 (the big Haussmanian's Paris transformations) - 23 000 square meters of glass and iron.
Not a big success, only the thrift stores still had custommers.
At large part was destroyed in 1905 (only 2 of the 6 initial Haussmann's structures still exist).
Despite being classified historical monument in 1981, the building is dying : no more custommers (dicount outlets and consigment stores were a too tough concurence) and as of July 2006, only 3 stands remain in an empty shell and, they too, will close soon (autumn or winter 2006).
This huge space is sometimes used for fashion shows, concerts, exhibitions - after the transformations (the halle will be restructured - the external look will be kept) : exhibition hall, luxury shops and sport infrastructure will permanently use the place.
CARREAU DU TEMPLE
Rues Eugène Spuller and Dupetit-Thouars - 75003 PARIS
Métro : Temple Leave a Comment
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I loved stumbling onto these street vending market places. They pop up here and there - we discovered them as we walked around town. The food that is available was more impressive than any gourmet market I have ever been in. Roasted chickens & potatoes, the unlimited amounts of various cheeses, the enormous variety of seafood available, etc. Of course, as a tourist, you just can't buy groceries and prepare your meal in your hotel room. We did buy olives to snack on - just wonderful! Photo is a little crooked but you should be able to make it out.
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La Fontaine des Quatre-Saisons is the only fountain I know with its own street address ;) It is located on rue Grenelle right next to Mus?e Maillol. It was built between 1739 and 1747 during the reign of Louis XV. It represents the four seasons, naturally. Unfortunately it has always either been turned off or under repair during my visits. Its function was to improve the water suppy to the district. Leave a Comment Other Contact: 57/59, rue de Grenelle
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I don't much care for Pigalle etc.
but I like the area south of it.
Between Metro Pigalle & Blanche (it's actually in the upper 9th arr. as opposed to the Montmartre 18th) and south of Pigalle / Clichy madness is an area filled with older houses, some parks and pawnshops, mostly around rue de Douai / rue Victor Masse, rue du Fontaine, etc.
It's a relief to escape the "disneyland" of Montmarte & hectic inner arrondisements once in a while.
I used to crawl pawnshops in skid row parts of town looking for used guitars when I was a kid so I liked this area.
Lots of places selling used instruments (some were cool, unique foreign instruments you don't find in the states), bars, actual sex shops (not like the sleazy traps on Pigalle). The area has more personality (good & bad) than a lot of other parts of the city. And as always, beautiful squares / parks in the middle of it all (Sq. Berlioz).
There appeared to be lots of Algerian & Moroccan-lineage french hanging out, and some little african and south-asian places to eat.
Not so many cafes as little shops, as there didn't seem to be many tourists there. Quiet pedestrian traffic, mostly locals... you'll stick out as a tourist and draw a little attention on the street but that can sometimes lead to a new experience or interesting conversation.
Not a large area, but lots of character and very interesting.
see if you can get a peek or sneak into the mysterious, historic & private
Avenue Frochot
(or rent Toulouse-Lautrec's last workshop apartment if you have 1600-2000 Euros / week to spend)
Links:
Sq. Berlioz history
Pawnshop instruments
Pigalle info Leave a Comment
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Patisserie Poilâne ia one of Paris's most well kept secrets. It's the best bakery in town and many famous people including late Jacqueline Kennedy and actor Tom Hanks order their bread from here weekly. Baking is still done by hand, the only mechanical machine is the mixer. The bakery has an unusual art collection when artists used to pay for bread with one of their works. Salvatore Dali made a tree of bread dough which can still be seen today.
Read more at Poilane's website and do what stars do: order handmade bread!
Two shops in Paris:
8 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6ème
or
49 bld de Grenelle, Paris 15ème (open on Sundays)
This tip originally written 26 August 2002. Leave a Comment
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Rue Mouffetard is an ancient narrow, winding, lovely little cobblestone street full of groceries, cafes, theatres, marvellous little squares, and a street market. It's a wonderful change from the grand straight boulevards and stuffy false facades of much of Paris. The Cafe Mouffetard is one of my favorites (you may recognize it from the Kieslowski film Blue), a humble cozy place which, last time I was there, had a strangely charming brown 70's tackiness to it. I could almost imagine it as a mix of American diner and Parisian cafe.
There's a number of metro stops along the street or close by, including Place Monge, Censier Daubenton, and Cardinal Lemoin. Leave a Comment
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On my arrival day I usually start with a baguette/jambon and a glass of red wine after which I do a couple of errands perhaps and then just wander around my neighborhood. In October 2005 it was, as often it is, the western part of the 7th. These are just a few of the details that caught my eye on and off ave de la Bourdonnais. Leave a Comment
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There is a pedestrian-only street called "rue de Levi" where a street-market is found which is just wonderful. It was definetely one of the things I enjoyed the must on my last trip. I was lucky enough to stay about 2 blocks from it and had to pass by it every day in order to take the subway (Villiers), so I had the chance to be in it many many times.
The street market is about 4 blocks long and the food they sell in it is just amazing.
From fruits, to vegetables, to groose, to hens, to foi-gras, to paté, meat, cheese, flowers, crab, fish, etc. all you find there is premium quality (though some times premium price as well).
In the same street, there are also about three bakeries, a monoprix and many standard places to have a nice snack.
Definitely worth going to if you like to mingle with more local stuff. Leave a Comment
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More Paris Tips Overview
| General Tips
Tips: 2,394 - Photos: 2,329 | Restaurants
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- Hotel Elysees Mermoz
30 Rue Jean Mermoz 08 Arr., Paris, France - HOTEL GAVARINI
5 rue Gavarni 16 Arr., Paris, France - Citadines Paris Voltaire Republ
75 bis, avenue Parmentier 11th Arr., Paris, France - Kyriad Paris Nation
9, rue de Reuilly 12th Arr., Paris, France - Hotel Galileo - Paris
54 rue Galilee 08 Arr., Paris, France - Jarry
4, rue Jarry 10th Arr., Paris, France - Clement St. Germain Hotel
6, Rue Clement 6th Arr., Paris, France - Novotel Paris Porte D Italie
22 Rue Voltaire, Paris, France - Du Leman Hotel
20 Rue De Trevise 9th Arr., Paris, France - Comfort Hotel Cardinal Rive Gauche
20-22 Rue Pascal 5th Arr., Paris, France - Mayflower
3, rue de Chateaubriand, Paris, France - Libertel Mulhouse Gare Est 2m
87 Boulevard de Strasbourg, Paris, France - Devillas
4 Boulevard Saint Marcel 5th Arr, Paris, France - Abotel Transcontinental
155, avenue Du Maine 14th Arr., Paris, France - Atel Abadi
159 boulevard Lefebvre 15 Arr., Paris, France
Destinations near Paris- Île de la Cité, 1.22 km / 0.76 miles
- Clichy, 4.44 km / 2.76 miles
- Neuilly-sur-Seine, 5.22 km / 3.24 miles
- Asnières, 6.65 km / 4.13 miles
- Boulogne-Billancourt, 7.13 km / 4.43 miles
- Courbevoie, 7.13 km / 4.43 miles
- Suresnes, 7.31 km / 4.54 miles
- Puteaux, 7.31 km / 4.54 miles
- Bois-Colombes, 7.39 km / 4.59 miles
- Issy-les-Moulineaux, 7.39 km / 4.60 miles
» See all locations nearby» Popular Île-de-France locations» Popular France locations
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