Bofinger, Paris

This tip is provided by our daughter.

Bofinger is one of those places everyone raves about. "Oh, the gorgeous ceilings! Oh, the incredible service! What delicate food! And above all, how Parisian!" It's a veritable institution and you'll often hear it named as such.

This restaurant is indeed an extremely beautiful place. From the dome-shaped stained glass ceiling, to the delicate chandeliers, to the wrought iron accents, to the white linen tablecloths -- throughout, there's a harmonious elegance. The waitstaff dress in their evening best; the silverware shines; mirrors abound.

The restaurant is situated in the Bastille area, where dramatic history is overlaid by new energy and the lively sounds of ever-jumping nightclubs. And if it weren't conveniently located based on geography, Bofinger would still be convenient because it keeps such late hours -- 1AM on a weeknight!

The waitstaff was very welcoming when we first came in; it's clear that there's no snobbery based on attire, reservations or the lack thereof, and the mastery of the language or lack thereof. It's a warm, appealing atmosphere that combines the best of a brasserie with fine dining.

I had the oft-recommended sauerkraut and sausages; it was a feast of a meal, attractively presented, and very nicely done. However, it was the only positive aspect of the meal.

The bread was stale. The filet mignon was extremely undercooked, despite specific requests to the contrary. Our desserts of millefeuille and profiteroles were unremarkable; in fact, as to the latter, my friend was sorely disappointed to realize that he makes better profiteroles in his own kitchen.

The mediocre food might have been salvaged by service, except there really wasn't much service. When our waiter was around, he was charmingly attentive. Unfortunately, he was rarely present. And when we tried to flag the attention of other waitstaff, they were uniformly disobliging and dismissive.

In summary, Bofinger is an expensive feast for the eyes. Not so much for the stomach. The restaurant epitomizes "Parisian" only if you believe the city is all flash and no substance. Some people may agree with that summary, but I can assure you that the city -- and its restaurants! -- deserve more credit.

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