 | Paris Things To Do | Tips 1 - 10 of 9840 |  | At the beginning of the sixties I visited for the first time Le Louvre. There was no pyramid; the facades of the Louvre were of a dirty grey colour as most of the buildings of Paris. No queue at the entrance of the museum. We were only four visitors in front of Mona Lisa. I returned in the nineties; the pyramid was standing there as well as the queues. We were more than forty to admire Mona Lisa. In the spring of 2005, I was again in the Louvre where the Joconde had just been installed in a new bigger room (Wing Denon, 1st floor, room 6). By curiosity I went to this new room to find inside and around a crowd of about 400 persons. In 40 years there had been a hundredfold increase of visitors to Mona Lisa! I abandoned and went to the Richelieu wing with on the 2nd floor the collections of the Dutch and Flemish painters. I was almost alone and could admire in all quietness (room 38) two Vermeer "The Lace maker" and "The Astronomer" and one painting of Pieter de Hooch. Shall I add that there are only few museums in the world which have two Vermeer's. On the first floor I paid a visit to the tapestries of Brussels with the famous "Hunting's of Maximilien". A bit before the closing time I returned to the room of La Joconde which I could finally approach. I was amazed at the Mona Lisa's bad look; she showed a greenish complexion; or is it the effect from the thick glass panel which protects her? I read that the Joconde would need a restoration; the wooden panel bends. But who in France will dare to make the decision to remove Mona Lisa from the Louvre for a restoration? By her attraction on the world tourism, Mona Lisa represents an important part of the GNP of France! No mystery anymore. Experts of the University library of Heidelberg have found a book belonging to Agostino Vespucci, an acquaintance of Da Vinci. A note in this book indicates that Mona Lisa was Lisa del Giocondo wife of Francesco del Giocondo a rich merchant of Florence. Address: Wing Denon, 1st floor, room 6Directions: Métro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
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As I am not an admirer of Napoleon, or of the other potentates who put Europe in fire and in blood, I visited several times the Invalides leaving aside Napoleon's tomb. Nevertheless Bonaparte is not unknown to me because he lost the definitive battle in Waterloo, that is not far from my home. During my recent visit to the museum of the army at the Invalides, I took advantage of my museum pass to enter under the dome. No doubt that the dome with its gilts is one of the grandiose Paris' monuments. Furthermore the flowery gardens in front of the monument are beautiful Inside I was unpleasantly surprised by the almost deification of the emperor Napoleon, the monumental sarcophagus, the souvenirs of Bonaparte presented as saint's relics. The worship of the emperor is not for me; too many people suffered because of his megalomania. ============================================== La déification de Napoléon.==== N'étant pas un admirateur de Napoléon, ni des autres potentats qui ont mis l'Europe à feu et à sang, j'ai visité plusieurs fois les Invalides en laissant de côté le tombeau de Napoléon. Pourtant le personnage ne m'est pas inconnu puisqu'il a perdu la bataille définitive à Waterloo, c'est-à-dire pas loin de ma demeure. Lors de ma récente visite au musée de l'armée aux Invalides, j'ai profité de mon museum pass pour entrer sous le dôme resplendissant de ses dorures. Le dôme est incontestablement un des monuments grandioses de Paris. De plus les jardins fleuris qui le précèdent sont de toute beauté. J'ai été désagréablement surpris à l'intérieur par la quasi déification de l'empereur Napoléon, le sarcophage monumental, les souvenirs de Bonaparte présentes comme des reliques de saint. Le culte de l'empereur n'est pas pour moi; trop de gens ont souffert à cause de sa folie des grandeurs. Address: Invalides, Dôme.Directions: Entrance South by Place Vauban.Website: www.invalides.org
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This is a remarkable museum among the best maritime museums in the world. The display has been improved in the last years, by emphasizing the main objects. The museum organizies specific exhibitions and each week conferences on naval archaeology. The visit begins with large halls where are exposed models of vessels of the wooden navy of the 17th and 18th centuries. There are absolutely remarkable models because they are of the time and built in the arsenals. Extraordinary is the model of a vessel of line with 110 guns built in 1720 to teach to future King Louis XV the technique of navigation (photo 1). It is during the reign of Louis XV that the first engineering school of navy builders was set up in France. The maritime arts are also present by the sculptures of stern and bow and by the famous collection of paintings on the harbours of France painted by Joseph Vernet. Very interesting are the rooms dedicated to the evolution of the navy in the 19th century with the passage of wood to iron and sail to steam. ==================== Voici un remarquable musée parmi les meilleurs musées maritimes au monde. La présentation s'est améliorée, épurée en mettant l'accent sur l'essentiel. La visite débute par de grandes salles où sont exposées des modèles de vaisseaux de la marine en bois des XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles. Ce sont des maquettes absolument remarquables car elles sont d'époque et construites dans les arsenaux. Extraordinaire est la maquette d'un vaisseau de ligne de 110 canons construite en 1720 pour apprendre au futur Roi Louis XV la technique de la navigation à la voile (photo 1). C’est durant le règne de Louis XV que naît en France la première école d’ingénieurs constructeurs de la marine. L'art et la marine sont aussi présents par les sculptures de poupe et de proue et par la célèbre collection de tableaux sur les ports de France peint par Joseph Vernet. Fort intéressant sont les salles consacrées à l'évolution de la marine au XIXe siècle avec le passage du bois au fer et de la voile à la vapeur. Address: 17 Place du Trocadero. Palais de Chaillot.Directions: Metro:Trocadero. Right wing of the Palais de ChaillotWebsite: www.musee-marine.fr
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You will have understood from my comments on Orsay, that this is my preferred museum for the quality of the exposed works but also for the architecture of the former station of Orsay. I like the complexity of the plan, the level differences, the big clock, the views. But the museum is also a victim of its success (3 million visitors in 2006). To avoid crowds I arrive at the opening at 09.30h at the entrance for the museum pass holders; from there I walk directly by the central aisle of the ground floor to the bottom of the museum on the left side. Behind the wall is an escalator which rises directly to the level 5 so that I start my visit in an almost empty part (for some time at least - photo 1). Another pleasure with this museum is the restaurant at the median level (restaurant from the former station hotel, photo 2). Magnificent decor, correct food, efficient often kind service, normal prices for Paris. The painted décor of the ceiling and walls is of Benjamin Constant and Gabriel Ferrier. I advise you to arrive at the opening at 11.45 am. Tearoom in the after noon and dinner on Thursdays evening. Open 9.30 - 18 h (on Thursday 21.45 h). Closed on Monday. Tickets can be bought from 9 h on. Price 8 €. Reduced 18 - 30 yr 5,50 €. Free less than 18 yr. ======================================= Mon musée favori. Vous aurez compris, si vous avez lu mes commentaires, que c'est mon musée préféré à Paris, pour la qualité des œuvres exposées mais aussi pour l'architecture de l'ancienne gare d'Orsay. J'aime la complexité du plan, les différences de niveau, la grande horloge, la salle des Fêtes ou le restaurant. J'apprécie l'éclairage diffus et naturel venant du plafond au niveau 5 qui permet de bonnes photos. Pour éviter les foules je monte directement par l'escalator au fond du musée au niveau 5 des impressionnistes. Je commence ainsi la visite par une partie presque vide (pendant quelque temps - photo 1). L'autre plaisir est le restaurant au niveau médian aménagé dans l'ancien l'hôtel de la gare. Cadre splendide, nourriture correcte, service efficace souvent aimable, prix normaux pour Paris. Le décor peint est de Benjamin-Constant et Gabriel Ferrier.
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Believe me it was not my intention to write the 945th tip about la Tour Eiffel but when I came out of the Musée de la Marine at the Trocadero I could not avoid the best view on the Eiffel Tower. I just realized standing on the esplanade between the Palais de Chaillot that I had never been to the top. I have been more than a dozen times on the Champ de Mars and each time the queues discouraged me. I like to stand at the bottom of the tower and look up to the biggest "Mecano" structure in the world. As on the day before I had visited the Invalides Army museum and the WW II department with documents of the German occupation, I realised that it was from that Trocadero Esplanade at the exact place where tourists are now viewing the Tour Eiffel that on Sunday June 23, 1940 around 8 am, Adolf Hitler was standing there to view the Tour Eiffel and the occupied Paris (photo 2). (He would never come back to Paris). These 4 years were the worst for France and the Tour Eiffel. They ended with the liberation of Paris by the French 2e Division Blindée under command of general Leclerc on August 25, 1944 and the famous discourse of General De Gaulle: "Paris outragé ! Paris brisé ! Paris martyrisé ! mais Paris libéré !" There was fierce fighting at the Champ de Mars when a platoon of Spahis from the 2e DB attacked the Ecole Militaire where 250 Germans resisted during 4 hours against the French troops. At 12.30 h on August 25, 1944 the French flag was put again on the top of the Tour Eiffel by 6 Sapeurs-Pompiers from the fire brigade of Paris. It took them 25 minutes to climb the 1665 steps under the fire of the German soldiers. The good years for tourism at the tour Eiffel were back with more than 6.7 millions entries in 2006! Recently (July 2008) I read in the French press that the access to the Tour Eiffel will be improved in order to reduce the queuing. It is also the intention to have visitors spend more money once in the tower by offering more catering possibilities. Somebody at the management realised that the prices of the upper restaurant are not for budget travellers! We'll see next year. Address: TrocaderoDirections: You can't miss it!!!
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When you are in the Richelieu wing on the first floor which shows the decorative arts from the Middle Ages to the 19th c. you must visit the large room 19 of the Renaissance section. Here are hanging 12 of the most beautiful tapestries in the world called the "Hunts of Maximilian". Archduke Maximilian of Habsbourg, later emperor of Austria was the brother of Emperor Charles V (Charles Quint born in Gent, Belgium) who in that time had his palace in Brussels. He liked to go hunting in the forest of Soignes (still existing) just outside Brussels. The 12 large (about 5 x 7 m) tapestries show scenes of hunting at the 12 months of the year. The picturesque, realistic and detailed landscapes show, in the back ground, the still existing abbey of Rouge Cloître, the village of La Hulpe and the town hall of Brussels. The inspiration is from the Italian renaissance, the technical mastery is that of the painter and cartoon designer Bernard van Orley and the weavers from Brussels (ref. my tip on Brussels tapestries at the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire, Cinquantenaire, Brussels). They were manufactured between 1531 and 1533 probably by Guillaume Dermoyen. The "lissiers" tapestry weavers used two type of weaving loom: the horizontal loom called "basse lisse" and the vertical one "haute lisse". In both case the weavers worked on the back side. It has been calculated that one "lissier" would weave about 1 square meter in one month! Although ordered by the Habsbourg, in the 16th c. they belonged to the French Ducs de Guise, then Mazarin and King Louis XIV. These tapestries contain gold wire but fortunately escaped the destructions of the French revolutionaries. The French Manufacture des Gobelins made a number of copies of the original tapestries around 1700. These 12 marvellous tapestries are very well presented in the large room 19. It is sad that so few visitors of the museum stop here to really look at them. Address: Wing Richelieu, 1st floor, room 19Directions: Métro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
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With more than 50.000 objects the Egyptian collection of the Louvre is the second in the world after Cairo. This is not surprising as the collection started with Napoleon Bonaparte's expedition to Egypt between 1798 and 1801. It was the talented French linguist Jean-François Champollion who solved the enigma of Pharaonic writing in 1822 and was appointed curator of a new department in the Louvre that was inaugurated in 1827 under King Charles X. Another famous name was the archaeologist Mariette who became the first director of Egyptian Antiquities. In 1997, during the Grand Louvre renovation project, this huge collection was distributed on two different floors of Wing Sully. As the heaviest objects had to remain on the ground floor it was impossible to arrange the works by period. This ground floor with 19 rooms, including the temple room (12) and the sarcophagi room (14), features a thematic installation centred on the major aspects of Egyptian civilization i.e. the daily life in Ancient Egypt. The 1st floor of wing Sully (rooms 20 to 30) presents a chronological approach, highlighting the different historical periods and the development of Egyptian art from 4000 BC to 400 AD. Numbers of visitors of Le Louvre are coming here with the sole aim to visit the Egyptian department; for the others it would be a real pity not to spend at least one hour here. The most famous artefact which always impresses the visitors is "The Seated Scribe" (c. 2620-2500 BC) in room 22 on 1st floor wing Sully. The inlaid eyes are the most striking aspect of this sculpture; furthermore nothing is known about the person portrayed! Address: Wing Sully, Ground floor & 1st floor.Directions: Métro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
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After our leisurely walk on the Rue de Rivoli, and my stomach happy after that delicious cup of hot chocolate at Angelina's, we are ready to explore more of Paris. And the Place the la Concorde is where we are heading to. Traffic is swirling around the square and the sun is smiling down on us. This is one of Paris' largest squares and a busy one as well. But the traffic couldn't hide the beauty of this place for me, even if it tried its best at doing so. This octagon shaped square is dominated by a huge obelisk and I loved walking around here and taking it all in. Don't forget to go up to the Jardin the Tuileries before you cross the street towards the middle of the square though! From this point of view you have some really nice photo opportunities.... if you get here at the right time of the day that is. I arrived late afternoon, not the best of time of day. But when you go early during the day, you probably have the sun in your back, and you are able to get some lovely photos of the Place to Concorde, with the Eiffel tower in the background (see photo 1). The statue in the foreground of the first photo is one of the 8 statues surrounding the square, created by Jacob Ignaz Hittorf. They are all placed in a corner of the octagon and represent the French cities of Lille, Strasbourg, Lyon, Marseille, Bordeaux, Nantes, Brest and Rouen. In the second photo you can see the statue representing Nantes. Leave a Comment Address: Place de la ConcordeDirections: 8th arrondissement In between the Tuileries and the Champs-Elysées. Métro stop: Concorde
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The best department of this museum, i.e. the Département Moderne (1648 - 1871) with the splendid collections from King Louis XIV to Napoleon III is closed for renovation. Fortunately for the visitor, the WW I and WW II department has been renovated and extended what is a good thing because this part of the Invalides Army Museum was somewhat short in the previous years. This department deals with the military history from 1871 to 1945 on an expanded surface of 3500 m2 since July 2006. I was pleased to see that this period of history in which France had a central position is now up to other museums WW departments like the ones of Brussels, London or Vienna for example. Are exposed French and foreign uniforms, certain having belonged to major figures - Foch, Joffre, de Lattre, Leclerc - diverse armaments and objects of the everyday equipment of the soldier. I found very interesting the windows showing proposals around 1900 for less visible uniforms as those inherited from Napoleon III. (see cavalry helms around 1900 on photo 1). But they were finally refused so that the French soldiers went into the WW I with "garance" red coloured trousers (photo 2) what made of them quite visible targets for the German riflemen. I was much impressed by a model of the famous German heavy howitzer called "Grosse Bertha". My grand parents told me about that howitzer used in Belgium against the forts of Liège and Namur in 1914. It would fire 800 kg shells at 9 Km distance (photo 3). Is also shown one of the "taxis de la Marne" (photo 4). In September 1914, 600 taxis from Paris were requisitioned to bring troops to the Marne battlefield. The movement started at the Invalides and conveyed 5 infantry battalions (total 5000 man). What is not shown in this museum are heavy weapons like tanks or planes. For the tanks one should visit the "Musée des Blindés" in Saumur (on the Loire) where there are more than 800 tanks! Address: Invalides, Musée de l'Armée.Directions: Western wing of the Invalides.Website: www.invalides.org
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This museum on paintings of the 19-20th c. reopened after lengthy works. There are two departments: on the ground floor, in two oval rooms, are on show the eight panels of Monet's "Nympheas". The painter, when living in Giverny, had an aquatic garden whose plants where the theme of several of his paintings. Here, as in other paintings, are reflected the passing hours of the day on one subject. The effect of the "Nymphéas" in the circular space is enchanting; the visitor is surrounded and feels being inside the water garden. Connoisseurs say that it was a step towards abstract art. On the lower floor is an exhibit of 144 paintings of the Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume collection. It is an interesting complement of the impressionist collection of the Musée d'Orsay, on the other side of the river Seine, with a fair number of works from Renoir with masterpieces like the "Jeunes filles au piano" and Cézanne. The other works are from the period between the two wars with works from Le Douanier Rousseau, Modigliani, Picasso, André Derain with "Arlequin et Pierrot", Matisse and Utrillo. I was especially pleased to find here paintings of Maurice Utrillo, born at Montmartre in 1883, who painted mainly townscapes of Paris. As this museum is "new", having reopened in May 2007, I set up a travelogue with some of the masterpieces of the Guillaume collection. Open 9 - 18 h. Closed on Tuesday. I had to queue a bit even at 17 h with a museum pass because of the security check. The space inside the museum is limited so that the queue outside can get long. Price: 6,50 €, free for museum pass holders. Address: Jardin des Tuileries, 75001 ParisPhone: 01 44 77 80 07Directions: End of Tuileries gardens, adjacent to Seine end of Place de la Concorde.Website: http://www.musee-orangerie.fr
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